The sheer magnitude of the Himalayas cannot be overstated. It is so utterly breathtaking that I do not yet feel myself intimidated by its towering presence around me, only in awe. Would I that its exquisite inclines continue to inspire me to push ever forward. ‘Slowly, slowly,’ as proclaimed by the signed shirts that we see tacked to the walls and ceilings of the tea-houses or eco-lodges affiliated with World Expeditions. Today at least was not a baptism of fire.
We have been spared the flames until the day after tomorrow when we make the trek up to Namche Bazaar where there awaits us a very steep and – at least seemingly – never-ending trail. We covered approximately 4.8 kilometres today trekking from Lukla to Ghat with approximately 200 metres descent in total. The walk was at a very reasonable, slow pace. Even at 2600 metres in altitude, the air is noticeably thinner on exertion. We all have vague headaches and many a light headedness that might otherwise be attributed to mild intoxication if we had been drinking. It took us approximately 2.5 hours to trek down to Ghat, stopping twice for around 15 minutes each. The weather is still quite warm in the sun.
The flight to Lukla from Kathmandu was stunning. Flying much lower than the Silk Air Airbus that deposited me in Kathmandu two days earlier, the Twin Otter that negotiated the very short, very uphill runway at Lukla provided us with the most magnificent views. Lukla is a small narrow village with not room enough even to accommodate a vehicle down its main thoroughfare, should there have been a vehicle in sight. Indeed, aside from the small planes and helicopters on the airport tarmac, I saw not even so much as a motorbike. Everything was moved by the power of hoof or foot. Counterfeit hiking gear lined the street. Leki poles. Marmot down jackets. North Face down hut booties. A boy of perhaps 10 with down syndrome was trying to fly a kite in the street but he was unable to generate the force to cause it to lift into the air and there was hardly a breeze around us as the smoke and burning juniper at times clouded the walkways and caught in our throats. Lukla was, by contrast to Kathmandu, a far quieter, serene place. Simpler also and perhaps more honest. The shop keeps did not call out to us to ply their trade and it seemed, sometimes, that they left their store unattended as we discovered while trying to purchase bottles of water.
The weight restriction on the Lukla flight was supposed to be a measly 15 kilograms and yet I made it through with 17 plus the down jacket in my hand and those various items lining its pockets. In hindsight, I could have lined those pockets with so much more like the chocolate I left in my suitcase at the hotel. The last four squares of Amedei, however, remain in my kit pack with my electronics – I have big plans for that hand numbered block of Tuscan chocolate. If what I have read regarding crossing the Cho La Pass (should we stay on schedule and on route), I am going to need it that day. But I digress, Lukla was a beautiful place: old mixed with new, poverty with wealth.
The streets were lined with stone, the well placed pavers concealing a drain that ran beneath the centre of the road. The buildings were of stone construction also with thin glass windows and iron or wood thatched rooftops. Flags and electrical cables ran between the buildings, a surprising number of which boasted satellite dishes of varying sizes. Shop fronts were often shallow so as to suggest living quarters directly behind. Their wares lined the facade at the front so that you had to duck your head to enter. Space was at a premium. Chocolate bars and drinks looked out from beneath glass counters. In Lukla, a bottle of water cost 100 rupees (around $1). I am curious to see how that price inflates over the coming weeks. We will be surviving on boiled water and not bottled.
There was a steady tide of trekkers returning to Lukla as we descended into Ghat. Perhaps less than I expected. However, it is early October and there will be a great many others still on their ascent to Base Camp and Kala Pattar. Always there is the obligatory nod or hello from the other tourists. Sherpas, guides and porters travelling in the opposite direction do not really acknowledge us, their faces set as they haul what seems to be very nearly their own mass behind them, hunched forward against the weight, hands pulling down on the straps that anchor the load to their foreheads. Occasionally another guide or sherpa recognises our sherpa or leader and they exchange brief pleasantries in the quiet quick language of the Nepalese. Even when talking to one another they appear reserved.
I do not believe it is the language gap that divides the Nepalese from the Westerners. Their English is quite understandable and, to my linguistically-untrained ear, shares an inflection not so different from that of the Indian accent. They have no real difficulty getting their point across and with so many Aussies and Brits on the trail, it is little wonder that their English is so good, for even the German and Japanese tourists I have come across use English to communicate with the Nepalese people. Their mannerisms are very humble also. They smile and laugh with one another but when they look at us, for example to offer us something, it is with their head bowed and eyes peeking out from beneath their brows looking at you while at the same time not looking at you at all. I feel guilty refusing the second or third helping of potatoes because the person holding the pot just appears so eager to please. Perhaps it is just those on our trek that are like that. The tour guide in Kathmandu yesterday was extremely confident and outgoing, and was not so visibly reserved in his countenance. When my bank card failed to transact on a particular purchase, he leant me the rupees without question and without my even asking. He insisted upon it. Basu, our sherpa guide, does not share that same confidence with us as yet. According to our leader, Meet, the Nepalese are a shy people that will open up if you approach them. It would be a shame to not to get to know them better.
There are 5 porters to remain with us throughout the entirety of the trek. 7 additional porters are only temporary, there to see us through the Cho La. There will be no dzopkos or mules carrying our bags due to the limitations of that pass. Then there is the cook and his assistants and the 2 sherpa guides. The sirdar, who coordinates the trekking logistics. 20 men in all are required to see this trek through including our Leader. 20 for 7 Western tourists with big dreams and the good fortune of being able to bring them to life. There is something unbalanced in that equation.
(Postscript: Bank cards often could not be used at the same store twice on the same day even where the bank had been pre-notified of travel to Nepal and sometimes not even on the first transaction. There also seemed to be a limit on how much could be withdrawn by ATM on a single day which was something like $200. You were never able to withdraw more than $100 in any transaction at the ATM as the greatest amount available for withdrawal was 100,000 rupees. It is advisable to take more than one card (maybe one pre-paid credit card in USD) as well as a few hundred USD in cash for the Himalayas. There is only one ATM in the Himalayas located in Namche Bazaar although many money exchangers in Namche also appeared to offer the option of withdrawal from credit (which I did not try). It is easier to take enough money in cash with you into Lukla for chocolate, Pringles chips, battery charging, showers and tips for your porters, guides and cooks rather than try to find it in Namche.)
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